珍珠品质
Pearl quality is evaluated using five criteria — all beginning with the letter S. Known as the 5×S system, it’s how we at Pearls.jp (Amit Trading, Tokyo) have graded pearls since 1969 — first as wholesalers supplying jewelers in 40+ countries, and today for customers buying directly from our Tokyo showroom and online store. Understanding the five S’s helps you make an informed choice — whether you are buying your first strand or adding to a collection.
Shine — 光泽（テリ／luster）
光泽是决定珍珠价值最重要的单一因素。它描述了珍珠吸收、折射和反射光线的能力—创造出深邂的光彩，而非平淡、暗哑的表面。高光泽珍珠仿佛从内部散发光芒，而低光泽珍珠则显得暗淡无光。
Luster is where we reject most pearls. Of the akoya lots offered to us in Tokyo each season, we accept roughly 30%. Luster, followed by surface quality, is the first and most common reason we pass. As a JPEA-member exporter, Amit Trading grades to the standards Japanese export houses have used for decades.
光泽也是珍珠层质量和厚度最可靠的指标。厚实、结构良好的珍珠层产生锐利、明亮的反射。薄的珍珠层则呈现乳白、朦胧的外观。
如何在家检查光泽： 背对光源站立，将珍珠举至一臂远。在高光泽珍珠上，您应该能看到自己在表面上的倒影。
“Hold the strand and look for a sharp reflection. If the pearl shows good luster and richness of overtones, the rest is about balancing the other criteria.”
尺寸
大小是影响价格的重要因素。珍珠直径以毫米为单位，取决于两个变量：养殖时植入的珠核大小，以及随时间形成的珍珠层厚度。
大珍珠并不自动意味着更高的价值。珠核大但珍珠层薄的珍珠光泽差，表面可能随时间开裂或变色。珍珠层厚度比直径本身更重要。
This is the single most common mistake we see from first-time buyers at our Roppongi showroom: paying for millimeters instead of nacre. A 7.5mm akoya with thick nacre will outshine — and outlive — a 9mm pearl with a thin coat.
选购要点： 关注珍珠层厚度，而不仅仅是珍珠大小。珍珠层厚实的小珍珠，比珍珠层薄的大珍珠更具长期投资价值。
形状
完美圆形珍珠最为稀有—所有收获的珍珠中，只有不到 1% 是真正球形的。圆度历来是最受推崇的形状，圆珠的价格也最高。
除圆形外，珍珠还有多种形状：扁圆形、椭圆形、水滴形、巴洛克形和 Keshi。形状偏好因人而异—许多收藏家专门寻找巴洛克和 Keshi 珍珠，正是因为它们天然独特的个性。
表面
表面品质是指珍珠外层珍珠层的洁净度—即凹坑、瑕疵、凸起和变色的有无。高品质珍珠拥有光滑、均匀、无可见瑕疵的表面。
一些纹理有特定的行业名称。“橘皮纹”或“鲨鱼皮”描述的是在放大镜下可见的略粗糙、颗粒状珍珠层纹理。虽然所有养殖珍珠都会有轻微瑕疵，但在可见区域出现大的凹坑或斑点会降低等级。
When we grade strands for wholesale clients, surface is checked pearl-by-pearl under fixed lighting — the same inspection every retail piece at Pearls.jp goes through before it’s listed.
珍珠层为何重要： 表面品质与珍珠层的形成直接相关。厚实、均匀沉积的珍珠层形成光滑的表面。薄的或不均匀的珍珠层会导致可见的不规则。
色调（颜色）
珍珠的颜色由两个部分组成：体色和伴色。体色是主色调—白色、粉色、银色、奶油色、金色或黑色。伴色是浮现在表面的半透明次级色—常见的伴色包括玫瑰色、绿色和蓝色。
最上乘的珍珠色泽仿佛从珍珠深处散发，而非停留在表面。评估一串珍珠时，颜色一致性至关重要—每颗珍珠的体色和伴色都应与邻珠匹配。
Skin tone matters more than most guides admit: rosé overtones flatter cool complexions, cream and gold suit warm ones. Matching pearl to skin tone is most of what our Tokyo showroom consultations are for.
A note on grades: “AAA” is the industry’s shorthand for top grade — useful, but not standardized between sellers, so one shop’s AAA can be another’s AA+. What matters is who is grading, and to what standard. We grade to consistent Tokyo wholesale and export-house standards, and for the finest pearls, independent Hanadama (花珠) certification (Pearl Science Laboratory, Tokyo) removes the guesswork — we can arrange it on premium akoya on request.
为您选择合适的珍珠。
日常优雅
日常佩戴的珍珠串应优先考虑耐久性和百搭色调。
- 关键 光泽（厚珍珠层 = 耐久性）
- 关键 表面（可见瑕疵不耐磨损）
- 可考虑 形状（近圆形性价比高）
投资级
对于保值或增值的珍珠，每个因素都至关重要。
- 关键 光泽（仅限卓越光泽）
- 关键 形状（完美正圆）
- 关键 大小（越大 = 越稀有）
- 关键 表面（洁净或近乎洁净）
完美礼物
礼物应首先与收礼者的风格和肤色相匹配。
- 关键 色调（搭配肤色）
- 关键 光泽（“光芒”因素）
- 可考虑 大小（适合场合）
These are the same criteria Amit Trading has used to grade pearls for brands, wholesalers and jewelers worldwide since 1969 — now applied to every piece sold at Pearls.jp.
没有唯一的“最好的珍珠”。正确的选择取决于您的肤色、衣橱、场合以及您的审美。我们的专家协助您将珍珠与个人风格匹配—您可亲临东京展厅，或通过在线详细咨询。
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