Updated July 2026. Prices reviewed regularly by our sourcing team in Tokyo. Originally published April 2019.
Unlocking the mysteries behind Japanese Akoya Pearl prices by pearls.jp, tokyo, Japan
Akoya pearl prices are an enigma to most buyers, and judging by the questions we hear at Pearls.jp, even experienced shoppers are guessing. We are Amit Trading, a Tokyo pearl wholesaler and exporter since 1969, and buying akoya at the source is our actual job. This guide shares the tools we use: what drives the price of a Japanese akoya strand in 2026, what the honest benchmark ranges are right now, and why the same pearls can cost three different prices in three different shops.
Before we continue, if you haven’t read the basics about understanding pearls yet, you might want to start here. It will give us a common language for discussion.
How much does a good akoya necklace cost in 2026?
For a classic 7–7.5mm Japanese akoya strand with fine luster, expect around $600–$1,500 buying direct in Tokyo, and 8 to 10 times that from luxury brands for comparable quality. The full matrix below breaks prices down by size and grade. Pearls.jp (Amit Trading), Tokyo pearl wholesalers since 1969.
What happened to akoya prices since 2024
Anyone comparing today’s prices to a guide written even three years ago will be confused: wholesale akoya prices have risen 30–50% at the Japanese auctions since 2024.
From where we sit as buyers: the supply of akoya pearls has decreased, and the share of high-quality pearls within it has shrunk. The oyster population has not recovered from the epidemic it suffered years ago, and sea conditions have worsened as water temperatures rise.
Top-grade lots have moved fastest. The average price we paid per Mome for 8mm+ AAA-grade lots rose around 80% between our 2023 and 2026 buying seasons. The yen losing value against other currencies has cushioned foreign buyers from a good part of this increase.
| Full strand | Good (A–AA) | Fine (AA–AA+) | High (AAA–AAA+) |
|---|---|---|---|
| 6–6.5mm | $300–$600 | $500–$1,000 | $1,200–$2,000 |
| 7–7.5mm | $500–$800 | $600–$1,500 | $1,300–$2,500 |
| 8–8.5mm | $700–$1,100 | $1,200–$2,000 | $2,000–$4,000 |
| 9–9.5mm+ | $900–$1,400 | $1,800–$3,500 | $4,000–$10,000+ |
Hanadama-certified strands (Pearl Science Laboratory, Tokyo) sit at the top of the High (AAA–AAA+) column; certification is available on premium strands on request.
“AAA” is trade shorthand, not a standard between sellers. What matters is who grades. These brackets reflect the Tokyo wholesale and export-house standards we grade to. See our grades note.
Wholesale vs. retail: the anatomy of a pearl price
Every akoya strand passes through the same chain: farm → auction in Japan → wholesaler/exporter → local wholesaler → brand or retailer → you. Each step adds cost. Some steps add value: matching, composing, knotting and selecting. Others pay for marketing budgets and brand running costs, such as a Ginza lease.
Buying at the source means entering that chain at the wholesaler’s step. That is the reason Pearls.jp can offer pearls of such high standards at unmatched prices and selection.
“Luxury houses source from the same farms (and oysters) we do, or from us. The difference is the packaging, the marketing.”
Dori Chitayat, 2nd-generation owner, Pearls.jp / Amit Trading, Tokyo
Understanding Japanese Akoyas
Size Classification
Now that you know the basics about pearls, let’s talk about understanding Akoyas. As you probably know by now, these pearls come from a smaller oyster (Pinctada Fucata Martensii) which limit the pearl size to anywhere between 2-10mm.
Sorting and classifying Akoyas is always done in 0.5 mm steps as follows:
- 2-2.5mm
- 2.5-3mm
- …
- …
- …
- 8-8.5mm
- 8.5-9mm
- 9-9.5mm
- 9.5-10mm
You catch the drift by now right? Same with strands (necklaces), each strand graduates in 0.5mm steps. For instance, a 7×7.5mm strand means that the pearls at the end are close to 7mm while the ones in the center are close to 7.5mm. This is a very small graduation almost invisible to the untrained eye – the effect is of a non-graduated necklace also known as a “straight” strand.
Each of these steps incur a step up in price as well. Interestingly, in the past, graduated Akoya strands were more popular. Nowadays they are harder to find, yet still available by order.
Recently, Akoya farmers prefer producing larger sizes (7mm and above), mainly due to smaller labor costs and bigger revenues. Try imagine sorting 2mm pearls, not easy right? Now that you imagined that, can you imagine drilling them? It is a very tedious job. This trend drove the prices of smaller pearls very high.
Mome – A weight unit used for Akoyas
This leads me to the next point. Japanese pearls are actually regarded in price per weight amongst wholesalers rather than price per piece. This weight unit is called Mome, and it translates as follows:
1 mome = 3.75 grams
1 mome = 18.75 carats
This is how Amit Trading has bought akoya in Tokyo since 1969, by the Mome, at wholesale, the way the trade itself prices pearls. It’s also why source pricing is so different from retail pricing: a wholesaler sees the cost per Mome; a boutique sees a finished necklace or earrings in a box.
Understanding this allows us to appreciate the previous point fully. For instance, the price per Mome for 4-4.5mm Akoya Pearls is higher nowadays than the price per Mome of 7-7.5mm Akoyas, assuming comparable quality (luster, spot level, etc.). However, this doesn’t mean that one pearl sized 4-4.5 will cost more than one pearl of 7-7.5mm.
The following table shows approximately how many pearls per size are in 1 Mome for each size:
Knowing the size and weight classification makes it easier to assess the other aspects of the pearl (remember the 5 S’s?) such as Shine, Smoothness, Shades and Shape.
| Akoya Pearl Size (in MM) | Approximate pieces per 1 Mome (round, half drilled loose pearls) |
| 2.5 – 3 | 155 |
| 3 – 3.5 | 80 |
| 3.5 – 4 | 52 |
| 4 – 4.5 | 37 |
| 4.5 – 5 | 26 |
| 5 – 5.5 | 19 |
| 5.5 – 6 | 14 |
| 6 – 6.5 | 11 |
| 6.5 -7 | 8.6 |
| 7 – 7.5 | 7 |
| 7.5 – 8 | 5.8 |
| 8 – 8.5 | 5 |
| 8.5 – 9 | 4 |
| 9 – 9.5 | 3.3 |
| 9.5 – 10 | 2.9 |
Estimating Pearl Prices
Estimating the price is all about factoring the 5 S’s into a type of equation — the same dimensions captured in the internationally recognized GIA 7 Pearl Value Factors (size, shape, color, luster, surface, nacre, and matching). We compiled a list of the S’s sorted by their impact on price.
Size sets the bracket; luster decides the value inside it. Two 8mm strands can differ 3× in price on luster and surface alone, which is why we grade luster first, followed by surface quality. Of the akoya lots we see each season, we accept roughly 30% for our Tokyo office, and luster and surface quality are the most common reasons we pass. (The full grading system is explained in our pearl quality guide.)
- Size – When comparing prices, the size defines the parameters of the comparison. In other words, we shouldn’t compare 6mm Akoya pearls to 7mm as they are a different category all together.
- Shape – In Japanese Akoya there are three main shape categories which also define the parameters of comparison: Round, Off Round, and Baroque.
- Shine (Luster).
- Skin (blemish level).
- Shades.
When studying pricing – you must look at as many pearls as possible which share the same base parameters (such as size and shape) and then try to understand the reason behind the different pricing. The more pearls you compare, the better understanding you will gain. It is hard to do online, as you need to “feel & touch” the pearls. Seeing them with your own eyes is important.
Ask yourself: What reasons would this strand be priced higher than the other? If you don’t have an obvious answer, it is the best opportunity to learn.
When people visit the Pearls.jp showroom in Roppongi, Tokyo, we put strands of different grades side by side. The differences take thirty seconds to see in person and a thousand words to describe online. If you’re in Tokyo, come compare them; tax-free shopping applies for visitors. If you’re not, our pearl experts answer pricing questions by email with photos of actual strands, not stock images.
